OLIVOIL SURFACTANT is a non ethoxylated and non sulphated vegetal-derived surfactant. It is obtained through condensation between the carboxyl group of fatty acids derived from olive oil and the amino group of the hydrolyzed wheat proteins. The result is an amphiphilic structure with a fatty amide bond, having the lipophilic side represented by olive oil fatty chains and the hydrophilic side made by wheat polypeptides.
OLIVOIL SURFACTANT is a new generation surfactant, with a mild cleansing ability due to a characteristic mechanism of soil removal. The lipophilic portion has strong affinity for the lipidic fraction of soil, while the grafted peptides, with high water affinity, lead to the aqueous dispersion of the foreign materials. OLIVOIL SURFACTANT is compatible with all traditional surfactants and most standard cosmetic ingredients.
In Olivoil Surfactant , the incidence of amino-acids in the structure is greater than in Olivoil Glutamate, where the ratio between fatty acids and amino acids is 1:1. Indeed, this means that both are highly skin compatible, while the skin protection performance for Olivoil Surfactant can be foreseen as higher. The product is compatible with anionic, non ionic and amphoteric substances. The compatibility with cationic structures must be individually verified. Supplied as potassium salt, when used in systems sensitive to electrolytes, it may influence the viscosity. Olivoil Surfactant is supplied as aqueous solution (min 26% a.m.) readyto be added in a cosmetic formulation; it does not require any pre-treatment. The addition at temperatures below 40°C is suggested.
Olivoil Surfactant , thanks to its lipo-protein structure, can be used in cleansing cosmetic products for skin and hair. Its main characteristics are mildness during the cleansing phase combined with pH and skin moisture balance respect after drying. This unique performance is rarely found in standard and traditional surfactants. The suggested pH range is around 6.0 when employed as main or secondary surfactant.
1) Evaluation of skin parameters - OLIVOIL SURFACTANT DETERGENT
The evaluation of skin parameters was carried out following an half-face test protocol by a panel of 20 subject after using a detergent containing OLIVOIL SURFACTANT at 10%. The test sample was used as daily detergent on one side of the face, in comparison with a formula where the OLIVOIL SURFACTANT was replaced by Lauryl Glutinate, on the other side of the face, for 5 consecutive days. Test results are given through the answers of the panellists to a set of questions regarding sensorial skin parameters. Results are herewith graphically reported, considering two groups of parameters:
- negative skin parameters (dryness, tension, roughness)
- positive skin parameters (moisture, softness)
2) Evaluation of cosmetic agreeability - OLIVOIL SURFACTANT PERSONAL HYGIENE DETERGENT
The evaluation of the cosmetic pleasantness of a personal hygiene detergent containing 10% OLIVOIL SURFACTANT was carried out following two test protocols with a panel of 20 subjects:
- FLEX WASH TEST, in order to obtain in a short time indications about the irritating power of the formulation (20 subjects, internal part of the forearm, three applications daily, 10 consecutive days)
- IN-USE TEST, with the aim to underline the mildness of OLIVOIL SURFACTANT cleansing (20 subjects, personal hygiene use, one application daily, 5 consecutive days).
The FLEX WASH test results are given by the number of subjects that left the protocol following the first appearance of irritation signs:
The IN-USE test results are given through the answers of the panellist to a set of questions regarding the sensorial skin parameters. The results are herewith graphically reported, considering two groups of parameters:
- dryness, tension and roughness perception parameters: a high percentage of answers indicates a positive assessment;
- positive parameters (moisture and softness perception).
3) In Vitro evaluation of the ocular irritancy of OLIVOIL SURFACTANT
According to this in vitro evaluation of ocular irritancy, the product called OLIVOIL SURFACTANT proved to be not irritating.
1) FOAMING ABILITY
Two solutions were prepared: one containing SLES, the other containing OLIVOIL SURFACTANT. The Ross-Miles method was applied at 20°C, using water @ 15°F hardness
and at 1%.surfactant concentration (as active substance).
One significant characteristic of the Olivoil Products is given by the presence of long chain fatty acids, including oleic acid (68%), linoleic (9%) and linolenic (0,5%) and others like myristic acid, palmitc acid…
Their presence explains the results of the tests carried out on the surfactants concerning their highly smoothing performance. A number of scientific tests show, in fact, that the molecules with short chain fatty acids, like for instance the lauric acid (12 carbon atoms), have a greater irritant power than the long chain fatty acids whereby the irritant power of a surfactant is influenced by the number of carbon atoms the fatty acid present in the
molecule is made of.
These fatty acids of olive oil bond to wheat proteins have more similarities to both cutaneous secretion (sebum) and the cutaneous structures themselves (cheratine) making the Olivoil products very tolerable at cutaneous level and thus giving the finished products containing them a very nice psychoreologic effect. The Olivoil products carry out an effective functional action, very soft and moisturizing, in the respect of a correct cutaneous physiology.
They leave on the skin a good feel of hydration, smoothness, softness and cleansing: after using a detergent containing an Olivoil product, one has a feel of cleanliness, satisfaction and well-being.
Olivoil products are used in association with aggressive traditional surfactants (like SLES reducing its irritant effect) in percentages ranging from 2% to 15% depending on the desired effect. To merely reduce the irritant effect of traditional surfactants, low percentages of Olivoil products (2 - 5%) may be employed. Higher percentages of Olivoil products are suggested (5 - 15%) where an immediate feel of hydration, smoothness and softness wants to be additionally achieved. Moreover, the higher is the percentage of Olivoil used, the higher is the sensory eudermic effect obtained.
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